Directions

1. Start 8 to 12 hours before you plan to mix the dough. In a clean jar, stir together the starter ingredients until no lumps remain. Cover loosely with a lid and let it ferment at room temperature for 8 to 12 hours, until it has at least doubled and smells fragrant and yogurt-like.

2. Add the active starter to the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the warm milk, eggs, sugar, salt, and flour. Mix on medium-low, scraping down the sides as needed, until the flour is hydrated and the dough is shaggy, about 3 to 5 minutes. Turn off the mixer and let the dough rest in the bowl for 15 minutes.

3. Add the butter and mix on medium speed until completely incorporated and the dough begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl, about 5 to 7 minutes. If the butter resists, stop the mixer and stretch the dough over the butter chunks before resuming. Once the butter is incorporated, the dough will be very soft and slack.

4. Transfer the dough to a medium bowl and cover with a lid or plate. Bulk ferment at a warm room temperature (80°F) for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, stretching and folding every hour.

5. When the dough has increased in size by about one third and looks puffy, transfer it to the refrigerator for at least 8 hours and up to 16 hours.

6. Line a 13 x 9-inch baking pan with parchment paper and grease the bottom and sides well with butter or nonstick spray. (Or use two smaller pans and divide the shaped rolls between them.) Set aside.

7. Whisk the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt together in a small bowl until evenly combined. Set this spiced sugar mix aside.

8. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and transfer it to a lightly floured surface. Dust the dough lightly with flour and divide it in half. Form each piece into a rectangle and set one piece aside.

9. Using a rolling pin, roll one piece into a roughly 10 x 18-inch rectangle. Using a pastry brush, lightly coat the surface with half of the melted butter, all the way to the edges. Sprinkle half of the spiced sugar mix over the surface.

10. Starting at one short side, roll the dough up snugly into a 10- to 12-inch log. It will stretch a little as you go. Pinch the ends to seal.

11. Using a pastry string or very sharp knife, divide the log into six pieces, each about 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick. Arrange the rolls cut side up in the prepared pan, leaving a small gap between each so they have room to puff. Repeat rolling, filling, and cutting with the second piece of dough, then arrange the rolls in the pan.

12. Cover the rolls with a dry cloth, then slip them into a clean plastic bag or cover with plastic wrap. Proof at about 80°F until they have doubled in size and feel very puffy, about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. If your room is cold, use a proofer or the proofing setting on your oven to help with the final rise.

13. Preheat the oven to 350°F and position a rack in the middle.

14. Bake the proofed rolls for about 30 to 35 minutes, rotating halfway through. They are done when golden brown on top but still soft when gently poked. Remove from the oven and let cool for about 20 minutes. Wait to frost until they have cooled, since frosting hot rolls can make it separate.

15. While the rolls bake, brown the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the solids turn a toasty brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and cool for about 10 minutes.

16. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese, vanilla, powdered sugar, and salt. With the mixer on medium-low, slowly stream in the cooled brown butter until the frosting is smooth and fully combined. Spoon over the rolls and spread with an offset spatula.

17. Serve warm, or store in a covered container at room temperature for up to 1 day, reheating gently as needed.

Makes 12.

Recipe contributed by Sarah Owens.